Paddling in Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site

Kejimkujik sits in the interior of southwestern Nova Scotia, a glacier-carved landscape of dark-water lakes, slow rivers, and portage-linked canoe routes that the Mi'kmaq have travelled for thousands of years.

The paddling here is flatwater — no whitewater to speak of — but that doesn't mean uncomplicated. The lakes run dark and rocky shallow from mid-July onward, winds build fast across open water, and backcountry navigation requires map and compass skills.

This is canoe-tripping country in the classic sense. Kejimkujik Lake anchors the system. The park's name itself derives from a Mi'kmaq word describing the exertion of paddling across it — a useful reminder that island-dotted flatwater still demands respect.

No navigation buoys mark the lake, so paddlers need a Backcountry Guide Map or GPS before heading out. As of 2026, motorized watercraft are prohibited throughout the park, which keeps the water quiet and the pace honest.

The Mersey River is the natural starting point for anyone new to the park.

From Jake's Landing, a one-to-two-hour trip upstream moves through overhanging red maples and past turtles, frogs, and water lilies; downstream the river opens onto Kejimkujik Lake and its coves.

A short 200-metre portage at the Eel Weir Bridge accesses George Lake, worth a few hours among its islands. Equipment rentals and guided trips run through Whynot Adventure out of Jake's Landing, with summer guided experiences offered in July and August.

Multi-day tripping extends the picture considerably.

The lake system connects Peskowesk Lake, Peskawa Lake, Frozen Ocean Lake, Big Dam Lake, Cobrielle Lake, and Hilchemakaar Lake through a network of portages — the same routes Mi'kmaq paddlers used to move between the Bay of Fundy and the Atlantic coast.

Bring what you need. There are no navigation buoys, no motorized rescue craft, and the dark water hides rocks that will find an unloaded hull. Check for blue-green algae before swimming or filtering. Clean, drain, and dry your gear between water bodies.

The park rewards paddlers who come prepared and move at the water's pace.