Paddling in Stokes National Park

Stokes National Park sits on Western Australia's southern coast, about 80 kilometres west of Esperance, where a large estuarine inlet cuts into a landscape of coastal heath, paperbark, and low dunes.

The paddling here is calm-water and tidal — no whitewater, no surf launches — centred entirely on Stokes Inlet, the largest estuary in the Esperance region. Stokes Inlet is the one water that anchors everything.

Paperbarks line the margins, birdlife is dense — more than 40 species have been recorded in the park — and the estuary connects to the ocean through a coastal system backed by sandy beaches and rocky headlands.

For a canoe or kayak, this is read-and-float territory: tidal movement, wind exposure, and the occasional seal are the variables worth tracking before you put in.

The practical launch point is Benwenerup Campground, which is accessible to two-wheel-drive vehicles and has a small-boat launch. Skippy Rock and Fanny Cove require a four-wheel drive to reach.

Camping is available at the park, which makes a multi-day stay possible — paddle in the morning, fish in the afternoon.

Black bream, Australian salmon, King George whiting, and mullet are all present in the inlet; standard Western Australian fishing regulations apply, so check current rules before you go. A few things matter more here than at an unprotected estuary.

Pets are not permitted in the park. Tiger snakes are common in the vegetation fringing the water's edge — relevant when you're landing or lining up a campsite.

There is no fresh water available at the campground or anywhere in the park, so carry everything you need. The nearest resupply is Munglinup or Esperance itself. The southern coast of WA is exposed country.

Wind can move fast across an open estuary, and the nearest help is a long drive away — the Parks and Wildlife Service recommends carrying a personal location beacon. Stokes rewards paddlers who come prepared and move quietly.

The inlet doesn't ask much of your technique; it asks more of your planning.