Paddling in Isle Royale National Park

Isle Royale sits in Lake Superior, far enough from the Michigan mainland that the only way in is by ferry or seaplane. That remoteness defines every paddle trip here.

The water is cold, the weather shifts fast, and the park's boundary extends 4½ miles into the lake from the outer islands. What you get in return is a wilderness paddling environment with almost no motor noise and very little company.

The paddling divides cleanly between two worlds: Lake Superior itself and the island's interior lakes. Superior is serious water — cold temperatures, fog, and squalls that build without much warning.

The NPS steers open canoes and recreational kayaks away from it entirely. Sea kayaks should be at least 15'8" long for open-water crossings; canoes at least 15'.

The fjord-like bays along the island's more than 150 miles of shoreline give sea kayakers a way to read conditions and duck for cover, but there's no pretending this is sheltered coastal touring. The interior is a different proposition.

The Chain of Lakes runs through the island's core and is the natural home for canoe trippers. Wood Lake is one of the campgrounds accessible only by paddle, not trail — a detail worth knowing when you're planning a route.

Moskey Basin and Daisy Farm anchor the eastern end of the island and are reachable from Rock Harbor, where canoe and kayak rentals are available at the marina. McCargoe Cove and Chippewa Harbor extend the range for paddlers working the south shore.

Windigo, on the island's western end, is the other main staging point.

The park is open seasonally — closed from November through mid-April — and July through September brings the most competition for dock space and campsites, which are first-come, first-served and cannot be reserved.

A backcountry permit is required for any overnight stay; groups of seven or more need a separate group camping permit. Check with the park for current permit requirements and fees.

One rule that applies before you ever put in: vessel owners are legally responsible for invasive species decontamination before entering park waters. Before moving from Lake Superior into any interior lake, wipe down hull and gear completely.

The park's isolation is part of what makes it worth the crossing — keeping it that way is on you.