Paddling in Bundjalung National Park

Bundjalung National Park sits on the New South Wales north coast, where rivers push through coastal rainforest, mangroves, and heathland before meeting the sea.

The paddling here is flatwater — tidal estuaries and sheltered inland waterways — shaped by tannin-stained currents and the rhythm of the tides rather than gradient or flow rate. The Evans River anchors the northern end of the park.

The established paddle route runs 8 km one-way from Gummigurrah picnic area upstream, rated medium, and takes around three hours. The water is brown with tannins from tea trees and minerals from mangrove mud — murky but clean.

Tides govern what's possible: sections that are navigable at high water can be dry a few hours later, so timing your launch matters. The park entry fee applies, and you should check conditions before heading out, as the river can flood quickly after rain.

The Esk River defines the southern section of the park. Described as the longest unspoilt natural coastal river system on the north coast, it launches from Bill Weiley Bridge and runs upstream past mangroves, heathland, and old-growth dry sclerophyll forest.

Rock formations appear along the banks. Downstream, closer to the Clarence River entrance, the character shifts toward more open estuary water. Jerusalem Creek is a calmer option — quieter, birdwatching-focused, and suited to canoe or kayak on still water.

Across all these waterways, the paddling rewards patience. Koalas sleep in tallowwood and swamp mahogany overhead. Pied oystercatchers and eastern whipbirds work the banks. At dawn and dusk, wallabies come down to feed at the water's edge.

This is a park where the wildlife encounter is the trip, not a bonus — and moving quietly on the water is the best way to earn it.