Paddling in Assateague Island National Seashore

Assateague Island is a 37-mile barrier island on the Atlantic coast of Maryland and Virginia, and the paddling here is almost entirely on the protected bayside — calm, shallow water tucked between the island and the mainland.

The ocean side is surf and exposure; the bay side is where kayaks and canoes belong. The two bays that define the paddling are Sinepuxent Bay on the Maryland end and Chincoteague Bay stretching south toward Virginia.

Both are shallow, tidal, and largely wind-dependent. When winds stay below about 15 mph, the water can run gin-clear over eelgrass beds where blue crabs, horseshoe crabs, and cownose rays move just below the surface.

When winds build, conditions deteriorate quickly — the fetch is long and there's little shelter. Wind is the variable that matters most here. The Maryland end is the more developed access point.

The Old Ferry Landing area is a common launch, and heading south from there into Chincoteague Bay puts paddlers into increasingly remote marsh and open water.

Landmarks along that route include Great Egging Island to the southwest, the spoils area, Outward Trump, and Tingles Narrows further south.

A few miles out, boat traffic drops off sharply — on calm days it's possible to paddle for hours without seeing another vessel. Pine Tree backcountry campsite, set under loblolly pines, is accessible by water and connects paddling to overnight trips.

Burnham Guides runs fully outfitted kayak camping expeditions here in spring and fall, typically covering 8–10 miles per day on the bayside, with the option of a longer route running the full island length to Chincoteague, Virginia.

All waters within the National Seashore boundary are closed to personal watercraft (PWC) as of May 1, 2000, though approved PWC travel routes exist for access to the island. Non-motorized vessels may launch or land on the beach during daylight hours only.

Backcountry camping requires a permit — check with the park directly for current requirements.

Several agencies manage different portions of the island, including the National Park Service, Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, and Assateague State Park, and the rules vary by zone.

The bayside marshes are the draw: quiet water, wildlife moving at eye level, and a barrier island that feels genuinely remote once you're a mile or two south of the developed areas.

That combination is what makes paddling here different from most of the Mid-Atlantic coast.